White sands, wild weather, ferry crossings & bedtime under endless skies
Last summer, Nomadic owners Matt & Patti, packed up their Defender and headed off to the Outer Hebrides for an adventure with the kids- and their faithful dog Hudson! Here they share their favourite places to camp and explore, along with practical tips for travelling to Lewis and Harris as a family.
Why the Outer Hebrides with Kids?
Life moves at a different pace in the Outer Hebrides. Across the islands of Harris and Lewis, Gaelic culture and language remain part of everyday life. A visit here gently forces you to slow down—things simply don’t move as fast.
Our kids thrive being outdoors, and this trip gave them a real sense of escape and adventure. Even though we travelled in mid-August, the beaches and roads were surprisingly quiet. This gave us the space to relax and enjoy time together as a family.
Camping works particularly well for family travel. The kids can get involved – setting up camp, washing the dishes, running off to explore – and gain a sense of freedom and independence that isn’t always possible in day-to-day life.
Our Route
Day 1 – Exploring Lewis
We began by heading north to explore Lewis. After stocking up in Stornaway, we spent the afternoon around Eoropie Beach and the nearby Port of Ness.
Framed by towering sand dunes, and with the crashing waves, Eoropie is a vast, open beach with a real sense of wildness. It’s easy to see why it’s popular with surfers. Just behind the beach is the Eoropie Dunes Play Park, a brilliant adventure playground set right in the sand dunes. With areas for younger children and a little hut that serves a much-needed coffee.
That evening we made our way to Bothag Bhuirgh Camping and Pods. Like many homes in Lewis, the campsite sits within a long, gently sloping garden with stunning views over the sea. After setting up camp, we wandered through a small gate at the bottom of the garden, and found ourselves on a stunning, deserted beach. It was a magical way to end our first day, and one we’ll remember for a long time.
Day 2 – From Lewis to Harris
We were on the road early the next morning – fuelled by a morning roll with bacon. One of the real advantages of travelling with a roof-top tent is how quick and easy it is to pack up. No fiddly guy lines or muddy ground sheets to wrestle with – just pop it down and off you go!
Our first stop of the day was The Blackhouse, Arnol – a beautifully preserved, traditional thatched house built in around 1880. Once home to a Hebridean crofting family and their animals. It offers a fascinating insight into island life and is a great family friendly stop, with a cafe, shop and small exhibition centre.
From there we followed the coast before zigzagging across the Island to reach Harris and Luskentyre Beach. Famous for its white sands and striking turquoise waters. It often appears on lists of the world’s best beaches – so we knew it was not to be missed. We spent a few relaxed hours wandering the shoreline, while our son lived out his dream of playing baseball on an endless stretch of sand.
That night we stayed at Horgabost Campsite, overlooking the bay. With everyone pleasantly exhausted, we treated ourselves to dinner at the Isle of Harris Brewery before heading back to the camp.
Day 3 – Exploring Harris
One non-negotiable on the kids’ list was a morning paddle board in the sea, and Horgabost Campsite is perfect for it. The beach is directly accessible from the campsite, and a short walk along the sand leads to a sheltered bay—ideal for paddle boarding with younger children.
Later, we headed to the island’s harbour town, Tarbert. We wandered the marina, popped into the Harris Tweed Company shop, and spent time at the Isle of Harris Distillery—an absolute must-visit. The peat fire, cosy atmosphere and beautifully designed space make it special, and naturally, we had to pick up a few bottles… purely for research.
With the weather turning, we scrapped plans to climb Clisham, Harris’s highest peak. Instead, we headed over to the Isle of Scalpay, where we stumbled across a real gem: North Harbour Bistro. Housed in an unassuming building, the food here was exceptional and incredibly good value. Even better, they were fantastic with the kids—which always earns extra brownie points in our book.
We returned to Horgabost for our final night in Harris, before catching the ferry the following morning from Tarbert to Skye—and beginning the long journey home.
Planning the Trip – Ferries, Timing & Expectations
When we went
We travelled in mid-August—a gamble in Scotland due to midges—but were pleasantly surprised. The sea breeze likely helped, and they were far less of an issue than elsewhere. We loved the long days, with late-evening beach walks becoming some of our favourite moments. While we never expect guaranteed sunshine, the unpredictability is all part of the adventure.
Getting there
CalMac Ferries run multiple routes to the islands. We’d strongly recommend booking well in advance during summer—especially if you’re travelling with a vehicle or pets.
We drove from near Perth to Ullapool and caught the 10am ferry. Early starts work well for us; getting the kids into the car in their pyjamas makes long journeys much easier. A relaxed brunch onboard set us up nicely for arriving just after midday.
Managing Expectations
Our kids (7 and 12) have accepted that road trips are part of family life—but keeping them occupied is key. Card games, activity books and creative distractions are essential. And yes, there’s screen time too. For us, it’s all about balance—and a smooth journey makes the adventure at the other end even better.
Final Thoughts
Our family road trip to Harris and Lewis reminded us just how special the Outer Hebrides are. From wild beaches and quiet campsites to ferry crossings and last-minute plan changes. It’s a place that encourages you to slow down, adapt, and simply enjoy being together. Travelling with kids here felt refreshingly uncomplicated—more about shared experiences than ticking off attractions.
If you’re dreaming of a similar adventure, take a look at our family-friendly itineraries. Designed to help you explore Scotland at an easy pace, with plenty of time for the moments that really matter.